29 September2023

A Bite of the Past: Taste the Richness of Japan's Edo Era

The Landmarks of Edo in Color Woodblock Prints
Courtesy of National Diet Library

The Edo period (1603 CE - 1867 CE), a pivotal era in Japan's history, wasn't just about samurai, ornate castles, and vibrant arts. It was a time when the food culture of the country began to take distinct shapes, evolving into what we recognize today as quintessentially Japanese cuisine. For any lover of Japanese food, diving into the Edo period is like opening a treasure trove of flavors, stories, and traditions.

Contents

  • The Rise of Edo and Commoner Cuisine
  • Sushi, Then and Now
  • Tempura: A Portuguese Influence
  • Dining Out: The Soba Experience
  • Sweet Delights: Wagashi and More
  • The Culinary Legacy of the Edo Period

The Rise of Edo and Commoner Cuisine

The Landmarks of Edo in Color Woodblock Prints
Courtesy of National Diet Library

The Edo period commenced when Tokugawa Ieyasu established his shogunate in Edo, modern-day Tokyo. As Edo transformed from a fishing village into a bustling metropolis, it became a melting pot for various regional cuisines. This bustling urban setting gave rise to "Edo-mae" (Edo-style) dishes, which refers to the techniques and ingredients prevalent in the city. Unlike the aristocratic dishes of the Kyoto nobility which emphasized aesthetics, the food in Edo was about satisfying the appetites of the hard-working commoners. 

Sushi, Then and Now

The Landmarks of Edo in Color Woodblock Prints
Courtesy of National Diet Library

While contemporary sushi is celebrated worldwide, its origins are humble.  Edo-mae sushi emerged as a fast-food dish. It was crafted from freshly caught fish from Tokyo Bay, marinated in soy sauce or vinegar, and then served over vinegar-seasoned rice. This process not only enhanced flavor but also acted as a preservation method. "Nigiri sushi," the hand-pressed sushi we adore today, was said to be popularized during this period. It was convenient, quick to prepare, and easily eaten with one's hands, making it a perfect on-the-go meal for the busy streets of Edo.

See Sushi Table Setting

Tempura: A Portuguese Influence

Sugoroku for Introducing Popular Specialities of Edo, New Edition
Courtesy of Tokyo Metropolitan Library

Tempura, those delightful golden-battered seafood and vegetables, owe their existence to international influence. Portuguese traders and missionaries introduced the concept of deep-frying in batter to Japan in the 16th century. By the Edo period, this cooking method had been adapted and refined to cater to Japanese tastes, leading to the birth of tempura as we know it.

See Tempura Table Setting

Dining Out: The Soba Experience

Sugoroku for Introducing Popular Specialities of Edo, New Edition
Courtesy of Tokyo Metropolitan Library

Soba, thin buckwheat noodles, became a staple dish during the Edo era. Not only was buckwheat easier to cultivate than rice, but it also provided essential nutrients. As the population of Edo boomed, soba stands and restaurants became commonplace. It was a meal that catered to everyone, from samurai to laborers."Soba-yu," the hot water in which soba noodles were boiled, was often combined with the leftover dipping sauce and drunk at the end of the meal. It's a tradition that is still cherished in Japan today.

See Soba Table Setting

Sweet Delights: Wagashi and More

Utagawa Kuniyoshi, Meishuzoroi Shiratama,
Courtesy of National Diet Library

Japan's sweet treats, known as "Wagashi," (Japanese traditional sweets) flourished in the Edo era. This was due to the fact that sugar production as well as technology improved. Made from traditional ingredients like "Mochi" (rice cake), "Anko" (red bean paste), and agar, these desserts were not just delicious but were crafted to be visually appealing.

For instance, in Ukiyo-e paintings drawn by Utagawa Kuniyoshi, a traditional Japanese sweet called "Shiratama" that still exists today is featured. It seems that during the Edo period, it was popular to eat Shiratama dango dipped in cold sugar water, and they were reportedly sold on the streets in summer. For the people of Edo, Shiratama must have been a luxurious summer treat to cool down their bodies, heated by the intense warmth.

See Desserts Table Setting

The Culinary Legacy of the Edo Period

The Landmarks of Edo in Color Woodblock Prints
Courtesy of National Diet Library

As Japan moved beyond the Edo period and entered the Meiji Restoration, the end of national isolation and the influx of Western culture brought about major changes in the content of meals and the dining landscape.

However, it was during the Edo period that the foundations of today's Japanese cuisine, as seen in Kaiseki and Kappo restaurants, were laid.  It was a time of culinary experimentation, innovation, and refinement. The simplicity, seasonality, and emphasis on fresh ingredients that characterized Edo cuisine became the pillars of Japanese gastronomy.

Today, even as Tokyo dazzles with its Michelin-starred establishments and modern eateries, hints of Edo remain. The bustling Tsukiji Fish Market, the quiet soba shops, and the charming wagashi stores are a testament to a bygone era, reminding us of a time when Tokyo, then Edo, was sketching its culinary identity.

For those intrigued by Japanese food, understanding the Edo period offers a richer appreciation. Each bite of sushi, each slurp of soba, and every piece of tempura carries with it centuries of history, tradition, and a story of a city and its people. So, the next time you savor these dishes, remember you're not just tasting food; you're experiencing a piece of Japan's delectable past.

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