22 July 2024
Musubi’s Kamakura Guide Part Two: Kaiseki Restaurant Gentouan
During this hydrangea season, Team Musubi took a day trip to Kamakura. In Part One, we introduced Iwata Coffee, a charming and historic kissaten we visited in the morning. In Part Two of our journey, we explore Gentouan, a renowned kaiseki restaurant whose name means "a place where one encounters phantom-like antiques." Located just under a ten-minute walk from Kita-Kamakura Station, accessible via a narrow alleyway, Gentouan sits on a small hill in a picturesque kominka “old Japanese-style house.”
At this restaurant, you can enjoy an omakase course style featuring seasonal ingredients with meticulous presentation. Not to be forgotten are the beautiful antique dishes and the carefully selected modern tableware that complement the exquisite cuisine.
From the building to the food to the tableware, every detail is crafted with care to provide a special dining experience. We will share the secrets behind this extraordinary culinary journey through an interview with Hasegawa Ikue, who runs the restaurant alongside her husband, Chef Hasegawa Takaya.
Contents
- Stepping Back in Time at Gentouan
- Omakase “Course Menu”
Stepping Back in Time at Gentouan
Ascending the stone steps and passing through the gate inscribed with "Gentouan" in kanji, we were greeted by hydrangeas in full bloom. Walking through the noren curtain and sliding open an old door to enter the restaurant, we were immediately immersed in the refined elegance of Gentouan. True to its name, the place feels like a step back in time, with a serene and timeless atmosphere. It feels as though we’ve been transported to a bygone era, when Kamakura was developing as a villa town. This building, constructed in the early Showa era (1926 CE–1989 CE), perfectly captures that sense of history.
"This building was once a temporary residence for Tanaka Kinuyo," Hasegawa explained. Tanaka Kinuyo was a legendary actress in Japanese cinema, appearing in films by esteemed directors such as Kurosawa Akira and Ozu Yasujiro. Given its proximity to the now-closed Shochiku Ofuna Studio, many film industry professionals lived in this area.
Gentouan's entrance hall is filled with numerous antique dishes, which customers can purchase. "Before opening Gentouan, we operated an antique shop in this building. At that time, we mainly dealt with kimonos and various vintage dishes," Ikue explained. Prior to that, they moved from place to place, selling items at flea markets and other stalls. Ikue began working with antiques because her mother was in the business, and as she helped her, she found herself increasingly drawn to it.
We were guided upstairs, ascending a rather steep staircase. From the windows, we could see the beautiful scenery of Kita-Kamakura and the lush greenery of the garden. The elevated position of the building offered a wonderful sense of openness. Although it was a humid day, the atmosphere inside felt refreshingly cool. The tatami-matted floors, the washi-paper ceiling lights, and the toko alcove with its hanging scrolls and fresh flowers all contributed to a carefully arranged space. Even as long-time residents of Japan, we realized how rare it was to dine in such a traditional Japanese setting.
Omakase “Course Menu”
Gentouan has earned a prestigious one-star rating in the Michelin Guide 2014 Tokyo, Yokohama, and Shonan, a testament to its exceptional quality and culinary excellence.
The restaurant offers only set menus for both lunch and dinner, all of which are omakase. It specializes in kaiseki cuisine, which originated as simple meals to warm the stomach. Over time, it evolved into light snacks for tea ceremonies and has now developed into a multi-course meal designed to entertain guests. The menu changes every two months to reflect the seasons, but it can also vary depending on the availability of ingredients. Here’s a look at the early summer menu from our visit.
After being seated, we were served an aperitif of plum wine. The refreshing, slightly tangy flavor of plum provided a delightful start.
Next came ark shell and sea urchin with a dashi jelly, presented in a glass dish with a handle, giving it a cool appearance. The blue maple leaf placed on the glass and the lacquer coaster underneath added a touch of elegance.
The sashimi course featured pen shell, tuna and sea bream, served on a celadon plate with a matching soy sauce dish and a sometsuke “underglaze blue painting” porcelain dish for the salt.
The next dish, presented in a lacquered bowl adorned with iris flowers, featured greenling and scallop cake topped with a soy-flavored kudzu sauce known as yoshino-an.
Following this was the hassun course, a selection of small dishes set on a rectangular plate. This included simmered fish with winter melon, salmon cake, edamame cake, pickled radish and okra yoro-tofu, a dish made from Japanese yam, presented in a small lidded container.
Next, a grilled ayu was artfully arranged to appear as if it were swimming, accompanied by crab, capturing the serene beauty of a cool, flowing stream.
The next dish was steamed sawara “Spanish mackerel” and round eggplant, served in a colorfully decorated lidded bowl. Opening the lid revealed intricate patterns on the inside rim of the bowl, complementing the glossy and visually appealing dish.
A slightly unconventional dish followed: hamo “conger pike” and fig with a tomato miso sauce. Trying fig tempura for the first time, I found it perfectly paired with a tangy sauce, offering a refreshing and light option for the latter part of the course. The meal concluded with green pea rice, miso soup and pickles.
For dessert, we savored melon and anmitsu, followed by matcha. The glass bowl of anmitsu, the colorful porcelain plate underneath, the kintsugi-repaired matcha bowl, the lacquered tray, the metal cutlery and the fabric coaster all came together beautifully, seamlessly blending different materials.
Each dish was thoughtfully crafted, and despite the numerous courses, we savored each one with our eyes and taste buds until the end. When we admired the beauty of the tableware, Ikue explained, "The tableware is a mix of antiques and new pieces, but even when we purchase new items, we often choose ones with traditional designs so they blend well with the older ones." Incidentally, Ikue herself prefers the vibrant styles of Kutani ware and Arita ware.
The two-and-a-half-hour lunch in early summer Kita-Kamakura transcended mere sustenance. Each bite, filled with delicious anticipation, unfolded against a backdrop of lush greenery. Traditional Japanese cuisine and tableware came together in a harmonious expression of the season's artistry.
After finishing our lunch and interview, we headed to Hasedera, a temple known for its beautiful hydrangeas during this time of year in Kamakura. We boarded the Enoden, a local train running from Kamakura Station, and joined the throng of people making their way from Hase Station to Hasedera. The sheer number of visitors, all eager to witness the hydrangeas in full bloom, was astonishing.
At Hasedera, about 2,500 hydrangeas of 40 different varieties bloom along the "Hydrangea Path," a winding trail through the temple's mountainous grounds. The temple is also renowned for its breathtaking views of Sagami Bay, visible through the vibrant hydrangeas. On the day of our visit, the hydrangeas were at their peak, and stunning potted blooms adorned the temple grounds. The hydrangeas, each with their unique shade of blue, created a mesmerizing gradient across the hillside, beautifully contrasting with the surrounding greenery.
Japan's flowers bloom in distinct seasons, and I highly encourage visitors to experience their beauty during their peak periods. Spring brings plum blossoms, followed by the iconic cherry blossoms. Early summer showcases vibrant irises, and then come the magnificent hydrangeas, with each season seamlessly transitioning into the next. While these floral wonders bloom for only a brief period, if you're fortunate enough to witness them, they will surely add a touch of brilliance to your memories. For Team Musubi, our day in Kamakura during hydrangea season was truly special, offering a refreshing and rejuvenating escape from the city's hustle and bustle, perfectly embodying the essence of early summer.
