26 July 2024
My Path with Japanese Cuisine: A Chef’s Tale
It is fascinating that in some cases, foreign experts possess a much richer knowledge and fundamental understanding of certain aspects of a country's culture than the majority of its own people.
Perhaps Japanese cuisine, eaten daily without much thought, might fall under such a category. Thus, we felt it necessary to revisit and renew our appreciation for our historical food culture through the objective and unique perspective from someone abroad, well-versed in Japanese culinary practices.
With this point in mind, we approached Ricardo Komori for an interview. Originally from Lisbon, Portugal, Ricardo now runs the sushi-kaiseki restaurant nishiiru in Kyoto. During the interview, we delved into Ricardo's over two-decade-long experience with Japanese cuisine and discussed his insights into the allure of Japan’s culinary culture.
Contents
- Embracing Nature: nishiiru in Northern Kyoto
- Embarking on the Journey of Japanese Cuisine by Chance
- Revelations from True Japanese Cuisine
- Adding a Personal Flair
- Encountering Fate in Miyazu
- Choosing Tableware for Traditional Fare
- Dedicated to a Unique Dining Encounter
Embracing Nature: nishiiru in Northern Kyoto
Nestled in the lush surroundings of northern Kyoto, nishiiru finds its home in Miyazu City. This coastal town, with a sandbar stretching approximately 3.6 kilometers into the cobalt-blue sea, is renowned for its breathtaking scenery, notably Amanohashidate. Adorned with around 7,000 meticulously tended pine trees, this city stands as one of Kyoto's beloved tourist destinations.
Amidst the historically rich streetscapes of this area stands nishiiru, a charming eatery crafted from a traditional warehouse aged over 130 years, renovated while maintaining its authentic ambiance. Here, under the masterful hands of Ricardo, guests can savor classic dishes and sushi courses at intimate counter seats.
Celebrating its second anniversary this June, Ricardo manages his busy days with dedication. For this interview, Mio, Ricardo's wife and culinary assistant, graciously provided interpretation throughout our conversation.
Embarking on the Journey of Japanese Cuisine by Chance
Ricardo's journey into the world of cooking began at the age of thirteen, fueled by his innate love for delicious food. It all started with preparing lunches in place of his absent mother.
His passion for cooking continued to grow unabated, leading him to enroll in a culinary school in Lisbon.
"At culinary school, I learned a wide range of cooking techniques, from Portuguese dishes, to French and more. At that time, I was interested in creating original dishes by gradually incorporating the essence of various European fare."
Ricardo's introduction to traditional Japanese cuisine, however, happened by chance.
"As part of our curriculum, we were given the opportunity to train at a popular dining spot that was a dream destination for chefs at the time. It was a unique establishment that combined a modern Portuguese-style restaurant, a bar and a sushi counter. After training there, I was offered a job and was assigned to the sushi counter at the request of management. And so, my career as a Japanese cuisine chef began.
However, even in Lisbon, the largest city in Portugal, opportunities to understand authentic Japanese cuisine were scarce, and Ricardo found himself preparing sushi and dishes heavily influenced by European styles.
"At that time, I was working without fully comprehending the true essence and techniques of Japanese cuisine. However, the kitchen setup, where customers could observe chefs working from across the counter and interact in a relaxed atmosphere similar to sushi restaurants, was very appealing."
Revelations from True Japanese Cuisine
Driven by his curiosity and a strong desire to become a skilled chef, Ricardo continued his journey in the culinary world, eventually rising to the position of head chef at a popular Japanese restaurant in Lisbon.
A significant turning point in Ricardo's culinary career was meeting Mio, a Japanese native who would later become his wife.
This led Ricardo to travel to Japan regularly, during which he began to explore the local cuisine firsthand, sampling dishes during his approximately month-long visits.
"The level of dishes served in Japan, compared to the heavily Westernized Japanese menus and sushi in Portugal, was a revelation. I was shocked by the stark differences in ingredients, seasoning, presentation and even the chefs' dedication to their craft! With each visit, my desire to learn more about and immerse myself in this culinary culture grew stronger. In 2015, I decided to come to Japan to begin my training.”
Adding a Personal Flair
During Ricardo's training in Japan, he worked in a variety of establishments, including a restaurant at a ryokan (Japanese-style inn), sushi bars, and kaiseki (tea ceremony cuisine) eateries, totaling up to seven different venues. Although there were challenges during his training, Ricardo found joy in acquiring skills and knowledge, supported by the satisfaction of seeing smiles on satisfied customers' faces.
"At one of the places I trained, I was introduced to traditional Kyoto cuisine, known as Kyo ryori, which has greatly influenced my cooking style today. For me, the allure of Kyo ryori can be summed up in one word: natural. It is delicately seasoned to highlight the inherent colors of the ingredients, skillfully expressing the seasons and landscapes through the food on the plate for the enjoyment of the customers. Learning about this cuisine, which draws abundant inspiration from nature, made me think that this was the style of traditional fare I wanted to pursue.”
"I learned many things from the restaurants where I trained, which eventually led to the concept of nishiiru. While nishiiru offers authentic traditional fare, I incorporate my own 'culinary identity' as a Portuguese chef into one or two dishes."
For example, Kyoto cuisine features a renowned dish called imobo, which combines Kyoto's specialty produce, ebiimo (taro-like tuber), with salted and dried cod known as bodara.
Similarly, in Ricardo's homeland of Portugal, croquettes made with salted dried cod similar to bodara and potatoes are a popular delicacy.
At nishiiru, Ricardo creatively adapts the ingredients of imobo in making croquettes for their autumn to winter courses, when ebiimo is in season. They use ebiimo instead of potatoes and mix in dried cod.
Encountering Fate in Miyazu
Enthralled by Kyoto cuisine during his training, Ricardo decided to hone his skills and experience authentic flavors and techniques firsthand by completing his training at a renowned establishment in Kyoto.
"After my husband had successfully completed his training in Kyoto and was struggling immensely to find a property to start his own business in the city, two different people almost simultaneously suggested, 'Why don't you take a break and go on a trip?' and recommended a trip to Miyazu," recalls Mio.
A serene view of Amanohashidate spanning across Miyazu Bay/©Kyoto by the sea
"One was the owner of a Japanese restaurant in Tokyo, where Ricardo had trained. He recommended, 'If you're going, experience the wonderful ingredients available in Miyazu firsthand.' Additionally, another friend suggested, 'You should also visit a vinegar brewery trusted by sushi chefs nationwide, Iio Jozo. They're currently looking for a sushi chef to open a restaurant in Miyazu, so you should ask them about that too.’ Both provided us with valuable advice."
The Kyoto Tango Railway train journeying through the scenic Miyazu landscape/©Kyoto by the sea
And it was during their first visit to Miyazu that Ricardo and Mio would have a fateful encounter.
"Miyazu reminded me of my hometown, Lisbon, with the sea so close by. Despite it being my first visit, I felt a deep attachment. In Miyazu, fresh fish is brought in daily at the port, which is crucial for making sushi. Surrounded by mountains, there are also fields where fresh produce can be obtained easily. Additionally, there is Iio Jozo, a vinegar brewery that produces fine vinegar, starting from rice cultivation by the brewery. Miyazu is a treasure trove of high-quality, locally sourced ingredients. I became convinced that here, we could realize our long-held dream of opening an ideal Japanese restaurant."
Mio continued, "Another thing we are very grateful for is the warm support we have received from the local people of Miyazu. For example, when Ricardo goes to the fishing port, everyone warmly calls out to him, saying things like, 'Today we have some great fish!' There are no language or cultural barriers. Moreover, it was only because the owner of Iio Jozo generously lent us this space that we were able to open our long-awaited restaurant."
Choosing Tableware for Traditional Fare
The selection of tableware is as much a source of enjoyment as the dishes themselves when serving Japanese cuisine. When asked about what he values in choosing pieces for his restaurant, Ricardo shared the following insights:
"The first important thing is whether I like its appearance at first sight. Next, I check whether it feels pleasant to hold and if it has a suitable weight in my hands. This tactile experience of holding while dining is a unique characteristic of Japanese cuisine."
"Personally, I prefer vintage items of Kyo ware, Mino ware and Oribe ware which are fired to highlight the natural texture and color of the clay, evoking elegance and a sense of history. I also prioritize pieces that reflect the distinct style of the artisan and am drawn to graceful painting techniques."
Ricardo learned the basics of tableware from the owner of a local antique shop he had been visiting since his training days in Kyoto. Many of the dinnerware items used at nishiiru were acquired from this shop.
"Ricardo and I would visit this antique shop during his breaks, and I vividly remember the owner telling us, 'You don't need to buy anything now, just hold them in your hands and touch as many pieces as you want. Get a feel for them,'" Mio said. "Ricardo often says, 'Western chefs choose tableware based on their personal preference. But in Japan, the tableware is chosen based on whether it suits the ingredients. It's not the chef, but the ingredients that choose the tableware.'"
Ricardo’s words, "The role of tableware in Japanese cuisine is so significant that I believe it can determine fifty percent of a dish’s success," carried a convincing weight that only a seasoned chef could express.
Dedicated to a Unique Dining Encounter
With carefully selected tableware and high-quality local ingredients, the dishes at nishiiru are prepared using traditional methods. As the course nears its end, Ricardo's roots as a chef are showcased in his sushi, which is abundant with fresh seafood from nearby waters. This is a culinary experience, filled with the creativity that only Ricardo, born and raised in Portugal, can bring to the land of Miyazu. It captures the essence of ichigo ichie “one time, one meeting,” reflecting the uniqueness of that particular dining moment.
"With each dish we serve, we gradually build a connection with our guests. We want them to savor and enjoy a special meal that only nishiiru can offer. For that, Ricardo and I do everything we can. That is our goal," Mio said.
"Even after a recipe is perfected, Ricardo never hesitates to experiment every day to make it even better. I think that's his strength as a chef. Even on incredibly busy days when he only has a five-minute lunch break and has to eat standing up, he still lights up with joy when he sees a beautifully fatty piece of mackerel ready for preparation. That's just the kind of person he is."
"I want to keep working here in Miyazu, at this restaurant, without losing my creativity and preserving the ideal form of my cuisine," Ricardo said with determination. Don’t these words alone make you want to fly to Miyazu and visit nishiiru?
Through this interview, we were captivated to learn about a chef so dedicated and deeply immersed in Japanese cuisine, filling our hearts with joy and excitement.
Gaining insight into a chef's perspective like Ricardo's has renewed our appreciation for the allure of Japanese food and tableware—things often taken for granted in our busy lives. Ricardo's unique creativity and approach are sure to reshape our understanding of what Japanese culinary culture has to offer.
Our heartfelt thanks go to Ricardo and Mio for sharing their wonderful stories.
Muito obrigado!
