Japan’s Hidden Gem: Wakocha, the Unique Japanese Black Tea

Japanese black tea, produced by green tea farmers, is attracting attention in Japan. The appeal of Japanese black tea, known as wakocha, lies in its ability to reflect the distinct qualities of its maker, much like green tea itself.

To explore the allure of Japanese black tea, Team Musubi visited KAGUWA, one of the few Japanese black tea specialty shops in Tokyo. Located in Kagurazaka, a lively neighborhood near Shinjuku known for its Michelin-starred restaurants, casual eateries, and cafes, this tea salon only opened last fall but is already fully booked on weekends with trend-conscious young people and middle-aged couples living in the neighborhood. We had the delightful opportunity to speak with 28-year-old Narahara Ryo, the owner of KAGUWA, about the appeal of Japanese black tea.

Many people may not be familiar with Japanese black tea, so let us give you a brief explanation of what it is.

Wakocha refers to black tea produced in Japan and is made by green tea producers in all 47 prefectures across the country, from the northern Tohoku prefectures to Okinawa Prefecture in the south. There are about 1,000 producers, and the number has doubled in the last ten years.

The tea is primarily produced in famous green tea-producing areas such as Shizuoka, central Japan, Kagoshima, Miyazaki, and Kumamoto prefectures. There are over 130 registered varieties of green tea in Japan, with the renowned Yabukita variety holding a significant share of 70 percent. 

The cultivation methods for green tea and black tea differ significantly, as do the appropriate fertilizers for each type of tea. For example, fertilizers used to produce umami-rich green tea can cause black tea to lose its aroma and take on a bitter taste. It is said that it takes years for the soil to recover from the effects of these fertilizers. Even so, some varieties of green tea are still suitable for making black tea.

Generally, varieties of black tea are classified mainly into two categories: green tea origin and black tea origin, along with native varieties and pan-fried tea varieties. Representative black tea varieties include Benifuki and Benihomare, while green tea varieties include Yabukita, Sayamakaori, Koshun, and others.

Japanese black tea has a unique flavor, which can vary depending on the year it is harvested, the production area, and the specific farm where it was grown. When choosing Japanese black tea, it is important to think about the type of tea and the place it comes from. This approach ensures you find the Japanese black tea that perfectly matches your favorite flavor and aroma. 

There are many black tea flavors, just like wine, coffee, and Japanese tea. Like these other drinks, black tea is valued for its terroir, which refers to the natural environment where the tea is grown. Many of the teas available are single-origin, meaning that they are made from a single variety of tea from a single estate.

Tea leaves offer remarkable diversity, ranging from the deep umami of green tea to the richness of Ceylon or Assam from Sri Lanka, and the fragrant elegance of Darjeeling and select Chinese teas. There is great pleasure in exploring these differences.

Black tea plantations are typically family-run or small-scale operations, enabling them to produce smaller quantities. As a result, some teas are very hard to purchase when they are in season due to the small amount distributed. There are also rare tea leaves that are only available for pre-order.

It may be interesting to note that while the popularity of Japanese black tea has recently grown significantly, Japan has actually had a long-standing tradition of exporting black tea.

Black tea development began in 1875, during the early Meiji era (1868–1912 CE). The government sent officials from what is now the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries to India and China to study the machinery and equipment used in black tea processing. In 1877, the officials experimented with black tea processing using green tea leaves. At the same time, they brought back seeds from India and planted them in various locations, beginning the trial production of Indian-style black tea. Around 1880, black tea production experienced a period of significant popularity, which led to a notable increase in exports to the United States, Australia, and other countries that continued until 1955. Following the liberalization of black tea imports in 1971, Japan experienced a decline in market share and a halt in production. About twenty years later, in 1993, production resumed with the introduction of the black tea variety Benifuki.

The modern revival of Japanese black tea is said to be attributed, at least in part, to a shift in consumer preference away from green tea. Consequently, this decrease in demand for green tea led to a decline in its price. This prompted green tea farmers to cultivate Japanese black tea as well. A select number of farms specialize in black tea. 

The popularity of Japanese black tea has led to the emergence of tea salons that focus exclusively on this variety. KAGUWA is one of the few Japanese black tea specialty shops in Tokyo.

KAGUWA's owner, Narahara, shares his passion for Japanese black tea:

"I've loved tea since I was a child, and when I became a university student, I visited tea plantations in Sri Lanka and various tea-producing areas around Japan. One time, I was floored by a cup of tea I tried. I was amazed by the natural scent of roses filling the air, and discovered for the first time that you can make a tea with a deep, complex aroma using just tea leaves, without adding any extra flavors. That tea was single-origin Japanese black tea, and it was simply exquisite. Since then, I've been eager to share this incredible journey with everyone. That's why I decided to start a specialty store that would highlight the charm of Japanese black tea."

While working, he obtained a tea master qualification and began selling Japanese black tea leaves. He steadily built up a foundation and opened a tea salon designed to be like a traditional Japanese tea room in October last year.

White teapots and cups are arranged by the front window, and small white bowls and canisters of Japanese black tea are lined up on the wooden cupboard inside the shop. The shop's layout is simple yet captivating, featuring seven plain wooden chairs and a white counter table in the center, giving it the feel of an art gallery.

"It may look like a gallery, and that's intentional," he explains. "We designed the space with a minimalist palette—primarily white with very few decorations—to create a gallery-like atmosphere. This allows our customers to fully immerse themselves in the world of scent and appreciate the subtle aromas of our carefully selected Japanese black teas. We meticulously choose leaves known for their delicate fragrance, ensuring each cup reveals its finest qualities."

Speaking from behind the counter, Narahara emphasizes the importance of aroma in shaping the experience.

Once seated at the counter, you have the opportunity to select your preferred aroma by gently inhaling the delicate fragrance of the tea leaves from the case containing the 12 types of tea leaves available on that day. The tea leaves in the case are arranged as follows: those on the top shelf have a strong aroma and sweetness, those on the bottom shelf have a color and flavor similar to green tea, and those in the middle are somewhere in between. We ordered a set of four types of tea along with Japanese traditional sweets. Narahara recommended tea leaves with different aromas and colors. His recommendations were the shop's original blend tea, Tsubaki and Saga Fujikaori second from the top row, Fukuoka Yabukita first, and Shizuoka Musashikaori first from the bottom row.

The moment Narahara quietly poured the tea into the white teacup, a subtle fragrance wafted through the air.

Tsubaki has a rose-like scent. It boasts a deep red color and a rich, full-bodied flavor, reminiscent of traditional black tea. Fujikaori has a sweet floral scent like jasmine and a subtle grape scent, and has a reddish-orange hue. Yabukita is more like a green tea with a distinctive umami and grassy aroma, more reminiscent of green tea than black tea. Musashikaori has a refreshing forest scent and a clear taste.

All varieties except Tsubaki are green tea varieties. The black tea varieties are Benifuki and Benihikari, which we didn't choose this time.

"The essence of Japanese black tea, as we understand it, lies in the exquisite aroma that is created by the delicate fermentation of the tea leaves. We select with care the finest tea leaves, known for their subtle yet captivating aromas, and feature them on our menu. However, it should be noted that our selection of tea leaves is subject to change, as the tea leaves we offer are produced in small quantities, ranging from 5 to 20 kg (about 11 to 44 lb), and are limited in availability. Each encounter with a tea leaf is a once-in-a-lifetime experience."

We were delighted to discover that the four teas we tasted differed not only in aroma but also in taste, body, and color, even though they are all full-leaf and look similar in shape. Each tea was served in cups and saucers crafted by Gen-emon Kiln, brought by Team Musubi. The color of the tea was beautifully reflected against the white porcelain interior, enhancing its vibrant aroma and creating a graceful ambiance.

"The climate of the growing region, the variety of tea leaves, and the individuality of the brewer can all affect the quality of the tea, ensuring each cup is a unique experience. Most British black tea blends rely heavily on Assam varieties, which have a rich flavor and astringency. In contrast, Japanese black tea is made from a wide range of cultivars, including not only Assam varieties but also green tea varieties and indigenous species. Each brewer has their own unique techniques, so the combination of these elements creates the farm's unique aroma, color, taste, and body. That's the allure of Japanese black tea."

It is also worth noting that Japanese black tea has been attracting attention around the world. In 2022, two Japanese tea plantations won the top prize and a special award at The Leafies International Tea Awards, a global tea tasting event hosted by the British Tea Academy. This development has prompted top European brands such as Fortnum & Mason in the UK, Mariage Frères in France, and Ronnefeldt in Germany to begin offering Japanese black tea.

The shop’s original blend, Tsubaki, won the Gold Award in the Blend Category for retailers at The Leafies 2025, surpassing several long-established international brands. 

"I was not able to achieve the desired result the previous year, so last year I spent a year searching for the aroma and flavor I wanted to express."

This blend of tea is only served at the salon.

When you purchase the tea leaves, brewing instructions are provided on the back of the package for your reference.

Although KAGUWA has only just opened, it has already been attracting over 300 visitors a month, enjoying the tranquility of the shop while leisurely savoring the pairing of four or two types of tea with Japanese sweets.

The seasonal Japanese sweets served with the black tea are also delicious, as they are sourced from specialty shops in Kyoto and Fukuoka that make sweets specifically for the tea ceremony. The flavor of the black tea and the sweetness of the Japanese sweets complement each other perfectly. It was an unexpected revelation that the seasonal Japanese sweets pair well with black tea, much like matcha and sencha green tea.

The shop offers a selection of 19 varieties of tea leaves. The names of the tea leaves are derived from traditional Japanese colors. For example, Usuzakura, referencing the pale color of cherry blossoms, is a green tea variety with a scent reminiscent of salted cherry blossom leaves and a delicate, subtle floral fragrance. It is cultivated in a dedicated tea garden in western Ibaraki Prefecture, where the terroir lends it a distinctive character. Benifuki, a black tea variety grown in a leading tea-producing region of Shizuoka Prefecture, is named Momozome for its mellow fragrance and sweet taste, reminiscent of ripe peach fruit.

"It's challenging to convey the taste solely through the name of the variety, place of origin, or description. To assist our valued customers in intuitively recalling the aromas and impressions, we have opted to use color names. We chose not to name the tea based on its aroma to avoid the misconception of adding flavor. We believe that our customers will find joy in envisioning the taste of the tea leaves through the colors."

If you're interested in experiencing the rich flavors and nuances of Japanese black tea, this salon might be worth a visit. A cup of tea in this tranquil setting will put your mind at ease. You will enjoy the experience so much that time will seem to stand still. There are no clocks in the shop, encouraging visitors to lose track of time. The space has the ambiance of a traditional Japanese tea ceremony, where guests are encouraged to set aside distractions and engage in a meditative experience with the tea. At KAGUWA, the focus is purely on the tea—simple and unadorned.

If you find yourself exploring the charming streets of Kagurazaka, stop by this specialty salon dedicated to Japanese black tea.