9 October 2024
What is Nerikiri? All About Japan's Traditional Confection
From ancient times, Japanese people have been highly attuned to seasonal changes, skillfully incorporating the transitions of the four seasons and the natural beauty of each season into their daily lives.
In the traditional Japanese culture of tea ceremony, this sensitivity to the seasons is also deeply cherished. The season is reflected not only in the flowers and hanging scrolls displayed in the tea room, but also in the tea utensils, like matcha bowls, and the traditional Japanese sweets, called wagashi, served with matcha.
In this article, I will focus on wagashi as one of the many elements that express the seasons in the tea ceremony. Among various types of wagashi, I will specifically highlight nerikiri, which are particularly appealing for their delicate beauty and artistry.
Along with explaining what nerikiri is, I will also introduce the method of making it as taught by a popular wagashi shop in Kamakura.
Contents
- History of Wagashi
- Why are wagashi eaten during tea ceremony?
- What Kind of Confection is Nerikiri?
- A Trip to Kamakura to Learn How to Make Nerikiri
- What is the Best Way to Choose a Dish to Accompany Nerikiri?
History of Wagashi
Before delving into the main topic, we will briefly look back at the history of Japanese confectionsーwagashi.
It is believed that the prototype of wagashi existed as early as the late Jomon period (c. 14,000 BCE–1,000 BCE). These early sweets were simple creations. Grains were heated, pounded, and shaped into balls, then flavored with plant nectar or fruit juice. Nuts were finely crushed and detoxified before being rolled into balls. These early confections, reminiscent of modern-day mochi “glutinous rice cakes” or dango “glutinous rice dumplings,” gradually evolved under the influence of sweets brought from neighboring China.
The production of intricate, hand-crafted confections by specialized artisans is said to have begun during the Heian period (794 CE–1185 CE). After that, during the Muromachi period (1336 CE–1573 CE), with the rising popularity of the tea ceremony, the variety of ingredients used in Japanese confections expanded. Advances in production and processing techniques led to further development.
Furthermore, after the mid-17th century, during the Edo period (1603 CE–1868 CE), sugar became more widely available with the start of domestic sugarcane cultivation in Japan. Initially, confections were luxury items enjoyed by daimyo, aristocrats, and wealthy townspeople, but over time, they became more accessible to the general public.
Interestingly, the term "wagashi" only came into use after the Meiji period (1868 CE–1912 CE), which began about 160 years ago. Prior to that, they were simply referred to as "kashi" (sweets). This term "wagashi" began to be used to distinguish Japan's traditional sweets from yogashi “Western confections” that had been introduced from European countries.
Why are wagashi eaten during tea ceremony?
As previously explained, wagashi have evolved alongside the tea ceremony. Even in modern tea ceremonies, wagashi remain an essential element. So why are wagashi served during the tea ceremony?
One key difference from Western-style tea time is that in a Japanese tea ceremony, wagashi are always served before the matcha. The two are never enjoyed at the same time.
This is because the main focus of the tea ceremony is the matcha, with the wagashi serving to enhance its flavor. Additionally, drinking matcha on an empty stomach can sometimes irritate the stomach. By first eating wagashi to partially fill the stomach, the sweets play an important role in reducing the potential strain on the stomach from the matcha.
What Kind of Confection is Nerikiri?
Now, we turn our attention to the main topic of this article: the introduction of nerikiri.
Wagashi are classified into three types based on their moisture content. Those with a moisture content of more than 30% are called namagashi “fresh sweets.” Nerikiri are a type of namagashi, which originated in Kyoto during the early Edo period, around the 1600s, and eventually spread to Edo (modern-day Tokyo) and throughout Japan.
The name "nerikiri" comes from the process of repeatedly kneading and cutting a dough made from white bean paste (usually derived from white kidney beans or white adzuki beans) mixed with ingredients like gyuhi a type of mochi made from glutinous rice, or yamatoimo “Japanese yam”. These additional ingredients make the dough more pliable and easier to shape.
Nerikiri, made from this malleable dough, are renowned for their intricate and delicate designs, vividly capturing seasonal motifs and landscapes. For example, in spring, motifs like plum or cherry blossoms are common, while in summer, morning glories, hydrangeas, and fireworks are popular themes. In autumn, chrysanthemums or persimmons are often depicted, and in winter, motifs such as cranes or nandina berries, symbolizing New Year's celebrations, are used.
Nerikiri typically has a smooth, elegant sweetness, with a soft and slightly chewy texture. The dough encases sweet bean paste, making it a wagashi that can be enjoyed both for its taste and its beautiful appearance.
A Trip to Kamakura to Learn How to Make Nerikiri
So, how is the delicious and beautifully crafted traditional Japanese sweet nerikiri made? Wanting to learn about the process, Team Musubi visited the wagashi shop Temari in Kamakura, a historic city filled with temples and shrines.
At Temari, wagashi artist and owner Misonoi Yuko not only creates and sells nerikiri but also operates a café. Additionally, the shop offers workshops where visitors can experience making nerikiri themselves.
Misonoi’s nerikiri is known for its unique blend of traditional techniques and creative designs that go beyond conventional boundaries. Her creations feature pastel colors and playful motifs, including characters reminiscent of animation and manga, which have made her work popular even among those not familiar with wagashi.
For nearly 30 years, Misonoi has been teaching nerikiri-making both in Japan and abroad. Under her guidance, Team Musubi’s Kristina, who had eaten nerikiri before but had never made it herself, learned the process of creating this delicate confection for the first time.
With autumn approaching in Japan, the lesson focused on making otomegiku, a nerikiri inspired by chrysanthemum, a flower deeply connected to the season. Misonoi guided the process, showing how to create this autumn-themed confection.
The ingredients used for making it are simple: three colors of bean paste dough in light purple, yellow, and white to shape the chrysanthemum flower, and brown koshi-an “smooth red bean paste” for the filling. The colorful dough is made by mixing shiro-an “white adzuki bean paste” with gyuhi, a type of soft mochi, which is then colored. At Temari, they take special care to use particularly bright white bean paste, allowing for more vibrant colors.
“For example, even the same fruit may have different hues depending on whether it’s early, peak, or late season. We pay attention to these subtle differences and take special care in creating the colors,” Misonoi explained.
She also added, “While the beautiful appearance and colors of nerikiri are eye-catching, it’s still food, so the taste is equally important. That’s why we choose shiro-an that has a fragrant aroma, a clean and refined sweetness, and a smooth texture. Besides the classic filling of red bean paste, we also handcraft original flavors like cherry blossom, lemon, pistachio, and coffee to match the season and design.”
In this workshop, participants create three pieces of nerikiri over the course of about an hour. The session begins with dividing each color of the provided colored bean paste into three equal portions.
“As you knead the dough with your fingertips and palms, you’ll notice that it starts to turn slightly whiter as it incorporates air. Kneading softens the dough, making it easier to shape, and it also improves the texture, giving it a gentler feel when eaten,” Misonoi explained.
Once the light purple dough is well-kneaded, it is spread out on the palm of the hand. An an-dama “bean paste ball” made of smooth red bean paste is placed in the center. Then, gently using your fingers, you press the dough around the an-dama, gradually encasing the filling within the dough. This process, called ho-an “wrapping the filling,” is followed by rolling the dough between your hands to smooth out any unevenness and shape it into a neat ball.
“It’s best to work with a gentle touch, almost as if you’re handling a small child. Nerikiri, often served during tea ceremonies, are the perfect treat to convey hospitality or use as a gift. If you create it with care and think about the special person who will enjoy it, the result will surprisingly turn out better, and it will surely bring joy to those who eat it,” Misonoi shared.
Now it’s time to finish shaping the chrysanthemum flower. First, take a small ball of the white bean paste dough and flatten it into a round shape. Then attach this round piece to the top center of the purple dough ball that has the smooth bean paste inside.
Next, gently press the boundary between the two colors with the pads of your fingers, gradually blending the purple and white until a soft gradient appears. This creates the base of the otomegiku. This type of bokashi “blurring or shading” effect is unique to wagashi and represents a beauty that is distinct from Western confectionery.
Following that, the process involves using a wooden tool called a sankakubo “triangular stick.” Pressing its pointed edge repeatedly on the surface will create even lines.
“This prepares the base for making the flower petals—twenty-four in total, divided into two layers with twelve petals each. To achieve a clean finish, move the triangular stick in a curved motion, first making four lines at ninety-degree angles, then dividing each section into three to form evenly spaced petals,” Misonoi instructed.
To create each petal, start with the lower layer, followed by the upper layer. Using the rounded tip of a plastic tool called saikubo “crafting stick,” gently press and spread the dough to form the petals.
“The dough is quite soft, so this is a challenging task,” said Kristina, feeling nervous. Misonoi kindly reassured her, “There are many shapes of chrysanthemum flowers, so it’s fine. Just relax and try not to apply too much pressure.”
Finally, a small yellow ball of bean paste is placed in the center as the flower’s core, completing the delicate and vibrant otomegiku.
Feeling a bit shy about her work, Kristina said, “It looks like something made by a child compared to the teacher’s sample.” However, Misonoi praised her efforts, saying, “For your first time, it’s very well done. It turned out cute and elegant.”
What is the Best Way to Choose a Dish to Accompany Nerikiri?
The otomegiku nerikiri that Kristina made was placed on a celadon dish brought by Team Musubi for the photo shoot.
The vivid colors of the nerikiri stand out beautifully against the soft, matte texture of the celadon’s slightly greenish-blue surface. The bamboo pattern engraved on the dish evokes the beauty of bamboo groves often seen in Japanese gardens, and its cool, refreshing appearance perfectly suits the transition from summer to autumn.
Reflecting on the choice of plate, Misonoi says, "When I create new nerikiri designs, sometimes the plate itself becomes the source of inspiration. This highlights the significant role that the dish plays in presenting wagashi. There are many ways to choose a dish, but it can be interesting to use one with a motif related to the theme of the nerikiri itself."
“For example, earlier, you saw some of the nerikiri we serve in autumn. One of them was themed around the traditional Japanese autumn event, tsukimi “moon viewing”. I chose a dish featuring kikyo “bellflowers,” a plant emblematic of autumn and often displayed during tsukimi. The dish was also decorated with gold, reminiscent of the color of the moon. This choice was made with that concept in mind.”
By selecting a dish in line with the philosophy Misonoi shared, the seasonal charm of nerikiri is enhanced, and a "story" is created around the confection. This makes the experience of enjoying nerikiri a special moment, unique to the current season and time.
“At Temari, we sell a powder that makes it easy to prepare nerikiri dough by simply adding hot water. Nowadays, both ingredients and tools are readily available online, making it easier for anyone to enjoy making nerikiri. Even if you don't have the traditional tools, you can substitute them with items like a butter knife or the rounded end of chopsticks,” Misonoi added.
"However, it might be a bit challenging for beginners abroad to make nerikiri on their own. Many foreigners have participated in our workshops, so if you’re interested, please stop by during your visit to Kamakura!" Misonoi kindly shared.
The Hase area, where Temari is located, is just three train stops from Kamakura’s famous Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine. It is also within walking distance of iconic attractions like the Great Buddha at Kotoku-in Temple and Hasedera Temple, known for its seasonal trees and other plants. For those interested in a uniquely Japanese hands-on experience that delights both the eyes and taste buds, this workshop is the perfect fit.
In this article, we introduced in detail one of Japan's most iconic confectionsーnerikiri.
Some readers may not be fond of the texture or sweetness of anko “sweet bean paste” used in wagashi. While nerikiri is also made with anko, its small size makes it easy to enjoy and pairs well not only with matcha but also with coffee and tea.
Nerikiri is not only an elegant confection that embodies the refined beauty of Japan, but also offers health benefits typical of wagashi. For those who haven’t tried it yet, we highly recommend giving this historically rich Japanese sweet a taste.
If you would like to learn more about autumn wagashi, please read this article.
