13 September 2024

A Harvest of Sweets: Discovering Fall Wagashi

Even before the leaves don their vibrant attire of yellow, red, and brown, the new season’s colors start to bloom in the world of wagashi, Japanese sweets. The rich hues and delightful flavors of wagashi invite you to step into the next chapter of the year. Capturing its essence long before the landscape begins to change, each one reflects the hearty abundance of the harvest season.

Contents

• Nature's Palette: Fall Motifs in Nerikiri
• Pure Chestnut: Kurikinton
• Chunky Chestnuts: Kurimushi-yokan
• Red Bean Bliss: Ohagi
• Harvest Gold: Sweet Potato Imo-yokan

Nature's Palette: Fall Motifs in Nerikiri

As the first cool breezes sweep through Japan, wagashi artisans begin to craft delicate nerikiri—miniature masterpieces that capture the essence of the season. Nerikiri is a Japanese confection made from a blend of white bean paste and glutinous rice flour, known for its smooth texture. Often crafted to resemble seasonal motifs, this beautiful nerikiri treat is inspired by kisewata, the age-old custom of covering chrysanthemum flowers with cotton on the night before Choyo-no-Sekku. The soft cotton absorbing the dew and fragrance of the flower overnight was believed to ward off aging and promote longevity when used the next morning.

Nerikiri is often enjoyed during tea ceremonies, making their artistic appearance almost too captivating to eat. However, once you do take a bite, the sweetness and subtle flavors create a harmony that’s as satisfying as the sight of leaves turning color. The ideal prelude to a bowl of hand-whisked matcha.

Pure Chestnut: Kurikinton

Chestnuts are a star ingredient in the fall, and kurikinton is a treat that lets them shine the brightest. This wagashi is simplicity at its finest—cooked and mashed chestnuts, sweetened just enough to enhance their natural flavor, and shaped back into its original darling form. The result is a tender delicacy that feels like taking a bite of the season.

The moment you take a bite, the crumbly texture softly dissolves in your mouth, releasing a gentle burst of chestnut flavor. This charming confection is especially beloved in Gifu Prefecture, one of Japan’s top regions for chestnut harvests. Not to be confused with the kurikinton found in osechi ryori during the New Year, kurikinton in the region around Gifu Prefecture refers to this treat.

The above image is for illustrative purposes only.

This golden, sticky version made with chestnuts or sweet potatoes, is the commonly-known style of kurikinton in other regions.  

Chunky Chestnuts: Kurimushi-yokan

For those who prefer a bit more substance in their desserts, kurimushi-yokan offers a hearty alternative. This variation of the traditional yokan—a dense, jellied confection made from red bean paste—has the added surprise of chunky pieces of chestnut. Steamed to perfection, kurimushi-yokan has a firm yet silky consistency that makes it satisfying on a cool day. Whether enjoyed with a cup of hot tea or as a dessert after a meal, kurimushi-yokan is a true showcase of the versatility of chestnuts in Japanese confectionery.

Red Bean Bliss: Ohagi

Ohagi is a classic Japanese treat that holds a special place in seasonal celebrations. Made from glutinous rice coated with a layer of sweet red bean paste, it’s traditionally enjoyed around the time of Autumn Equinox Day, which falls on September 22nd. The name ohagi is said to come from the hagi flower, or bush clover, which blooms around the same time. With September also being the season for harvesting red beans, ohagi is a treat that wonderfully encapsulates the essence of autumn in so many ways.

In the past, ohagi was often made at home and shared with family and friends, serving as a way to celebrate the season together. Nowadays, while more people pick up ohagi from stores, the cherished tradition remains the same. Alongside the classic red bean variety, you'll also find options with smooth bean paste or ground black sesame.

Harvest Gold: Sweet Potato Imo-yokan

One of the most anticipated crops of the season is the sweet potato. This humble root vegetable is transformed into a variety of delicious dishes, but one of the most beloved and oldest is imo-yokan. Yet another wholesome delight made from just cooked sweet potatoes, sugar, and some salt to bring out the sweet potato’s natural sweetness.

In the Meiji era (1868 CE–1912 CE), a sweet potato wholesaler and a confectioner in Asakusa teamed up to create imo-yokan as a budget-friendly alternative to the pricey neri-yokan made with red beans. Their innovation quickly became a beloved treat.

Imo-yokan’s texture is smooth and firm, with a sweetness that’s warm and comforting. Its rich, earthy taste makes it a wonderful companion to a cup of green tea. While it’s best enjoyed as is, try warming it up in the oven or toasting it in a frying pan with a little butter until it gets that perfect golden crust—it takes the flavor to a whole new level.

As you savor these seasonal wagashi, you’ll find that each bite offers a celebration of nature’s bounty, and joy this time of year brings to Japan. If you’re new to wagashi, this season is the perfect time to start, and if you’re a longtime fan, it’s time to relish these fall favorites of chestnuts and sweet potatoes! So, as the leaves begin to change and the air grows cooler, let these wagashi guide you through the season, one delicious bite at a time.