Jul 16, 2024

Musubi’s Kamakura Guide Part One: Long-Established Kissaten "Iwata Coffee"

A short train ride from Tokyo lies Kamakura, a city renowned for its serene temples, historic charm, and stunning natural beauty. Nestled between mountains and the Pacific Ocean, Kamakura offers a tranquil escape from the urban hustle. While it's a popular year-round destination, the city truly comes alive during hydrangea season (early to mid-June) when vibrant blooms adorn the landscape.

Taking advantage of this picturesque backdrop, Team Musubi embarked on a day trip to Kamakura. Our journey led us to a hidden gem: Iwata Coffee, a traditional kissaten “cafe” located near the bustling Komachi Street. Established in 1945, Iwata Coffee is celebrating nearly 80 years of serving locals and visitors alike. Despite facing challenges over the years, the cafe has thrived thanks to its cherished recipes and warm hospitality.

We sat down with Ikushima Arisa, the third-generation owner, to delve deeper into the heart and soul of this iconic establishment.

History of Iwata Coffee Reviving the Kissaten Signature Menu Items Pancakes Hot Coffee Melon Parfait Fruit Sandwich Iwata Coffee

History of Iwata Coffee

Iwata Coffee was founded in December 1945 by Ikushima's grandfather. Although he had passed away by the time she was born, she fondly remembers her grandmother standing at the register. "My grandmother and uncle lived on the second floor of this kissaten, and my mother also helped out for many years, so I used to come here after school," Ikushima recalls.

In 2005, her uncle, the second-generation owner, suddenly passed away, putting the cafe at risk of closing. Feeling it would be a shame to lose Iwata Coffee, Ikushima decided to take over, despite initial opposition from her father, who was aware of its financial difficulties. "The kissaten's finances were in bad shape, and my father didn't want me to quit my job. The interior and exterior were in terrible condition," she recalls.

Yet Ikushima left her job at Hermès and set about reviving Iwata Coffee. She believes that without her previous work experience, the cafe wouldn't be what it is today. "My experience at Hermès greatly benefited my work here. I learned the basics of customer service and professionalism while working at the Hermès store in Takashimaya department store in Nihonbashi."

Reviving the Kissaten

When Ikushima took over in 2005, the establishment was in a dire state with few customers. However, Iwata Coffee had a storied past, once frequented by Nobel Prize-winning author Kawabata Yasunari, known for "The Dancing Girl of Izu" (1926), and by John Lennon and Ono Yoko.

"The kissaten had its prosperous and challenging times over its 78-year history, but the ten years before I took over were probably the hardest," Ikushima explains. Iwata Coffee's savior came in the form of a nationwide pancake craze shortly after she took over. Retro kissaten specializing in pancakes were featured in the media, significantly boosting Iwata Coffee's popularity.

"We started accepting TV interviews that my uncle had previously declined, and the kissaten's popularity skyrocketed. The increase in revenue allowed us to gradually renovate." One of the first projects was the beautiful courtyard, a distinctive feature of Iwata Coffee. The sunroom-like seats by the window, overlooking the courtyard, offer a relaxing space to enjoy the changing seasons. During our visit, hydrangeas were in full bloom. "The old courtyard was in terrible shape, so we renovated it early on. The trees in the back are the same, but there used to be a pond with goldfish in the middle. It was the garden I played in as a child."

During our interview, we noticed that customers preferred the window seats overlooking the courtyard. The reborn courtyard, filled with Ikushima's memories, had become a beloved spot for everyone.

Signature Menu Items

Now, let’s introduce some of Iwata Coffee's popular menu items, starting with their famous pancakes.

Pancakes

The signature dish takes about twenty to thirty minutes to bake after ordering.

"The texture is dense and substantial. Fluffy pancakes are popular now, but our recipe hasn't changed since my grandfather's time," said Ikushima.

Hot Coffee

Hot coffee is made using a drip method called "nel drip," which involves using a flannel cloth filter known as a "nel." This method, more labor-intensive than paper drip, allows for a slower extraction, resulting in a rich flavor that is beloved by coffee enthusiasts.

Melon Parfait

A seasonal fruit parfait that was on the recommended menu.

"When pancakes were popular, I thought we needed to develop other menu items to sustain us when the trend ended, so we started offering seasonal parfaits. Now, we have different varieties each season, around five a year. The melon parfait has been on our menu since I was little."

Fruit Sandwich

A popular item for over ten years, featuring colorful fruits that are visually appealing and offer various flavors with each bite. The moist bread and light, milky cream pair perfectly with the sweet and tart fruits.

The flavors of Iwata Coffee are crafted by the dedicated staff who have worked there throughout its long history. Last November, cake baker Takasu Shinji retired. He started working at the age of fifteen in 1963 and was a steadfast supporting figure behind the scenes for sixty years. Reflecting on his retirement, Ikushima commented on Iwata Coffee's Instagram post, "I can't thank him enough for being with us through the good times and the bad. We'll continue to make our cakes with the same passion and love that he always showed."

The dedication of those who have supported this shop will be carried forward into the future.

Iwata Coffee, filled with charm as you learn more about its story, creates a high-quality, relaxed atmosphere through meticulous attention to detail in its food, ambiance and service. As we left, we saw many people lined up outside the cafe. For those visiting beautiful Kamakura during the hydrangea season—described by Ikushima as "the best season of the year"—a nostalgic and heartwarming moment at Iwata Coffee is sure to leave an unforgettable impression.

Read Part Two