29 August 2024
Discovering the Art of Sake Pairing at Shuzen Sameshima
Oimachi is a Tokyo neighborhood known for its Showa-era alleys and convenient train connections. And just a short walk from the train station is a hidden gem, Shuzen Sameshima, blending seamlessly into its surroundings with a house-like facade. Step inside, however, and you'll uncover a unique dining experience that masterfully combines the culinary versatility of kappo cuisine with the delicate nuances of fine sake.
Team Musubi had the pleasure of visiting this renowned restaurant and savoring a meticulously crafted nine-course meal, accompanied by carefully selected sake pairings.
Contents
- Sake at Shuzen Sameshima
- Sake Pairing Tips
- Sake Pairing Experience
Sake at Shuzen Sameshima
Run by Chef Sameshima Taishi and his wife, Tomoyo, a certified sake sommelier, Shuzen Sameshima operates with a clear philosophy: sake is best enjoyed with food. This intimate, eight-seat restaurant takes pride in serving pure rice junmai sake, meticulously chosen for its ability to enhance the dining experience and its unparalleled quality. Chef Sameshima and his wife emphasize the importance of temperature in sake, serving it chilled, warm, or at room temperature, depending on what best complements the food. This careful attention to detail ensures that each pairing enhances the flavors, creating a harmonious balance between the sake and the dish.
Sake Pairing Tips
Eager to learn more about the intricacies of sake pairing, we chatted with Tomoyo throughout our meal, gaining valuable insights on Japan’s signature drink.
"We start with lighter flavors and progress to more robust ones, adjusting the sake accordingly," begins Tomoyo. Seasonal availability plays a crucial role in selecting the sake, ensuring that the flavors complement the time of year. "We also vary the temperature of the sake, offering it both cold and heated, so guests can experience it in different ways."
When it comes to pairing sake with food, balance is key. "Harmony often means matching similar flavors, but a little contrast can enhance the tasting experience." This approach allows sake’s unique characteristics to shine through while complementing the dish. Tomoyo also shared an interesting insight on fried foods: "I often drain the oil from fried dishes, but pairing them with the freshness of namazake, unpasteurized sake, really brings out their juicy flavors." This combination highlights the interplay between the sake’s crispness and the richness of the food.
For those new to sake, Tomoyo recommends starting with fruity varieties. "Fruity sake is usually easier to drink for beginners, and it pairs wonderfully with sashimi." To balance the fishiness of sashimi, she suggests adding salt or a sour citrus like sudachi, which enhances the dish's compatibility with fruity sake. She also noted that sake isn't just for Japanese food. "I think cheese pairs better with sake than wine,” she remarks with a laugh. Sake with high lactic acid content, such as kimotozukuri or yamahaijikomi, complements dairy products exceptionally well, creating a harmonious balance of flavors.
Heating sake at home can enhance its flavor profile. "An earthenware pot is perfect for heating sake," Tomoyo suggests. "You can easily bring it to your seating area and enjoy it warm." For those unfamiliar with sake, the proprietress offers simple advice: "Try it fresh first. If it’s not as tasty as you expected, experiment with the temperature—try it hotter or colder. This can significantly change the flavor and your overall experience."
Sake Pairing Experience
First Course: Lightly Fried Vegetable and Hamo
Our meal began with a lightly fried zucchini paired with hamo, or pike conger, a delicacy known for its small bones that Chef Sameshima skillfully cuts. The dish was light on the palate, perfectly complemented by a sweet, slightly carbonated sake that paired beautifully with the saltiness and airiness of the food. It was an ideal starter, refreshing and delicate.
Second Course: Chawanmushi with Corn and Crab
Next, we enjoyed chawanmushi, a savory egg custard dish enriched with corn and crab. Paired with a dry, crisp sake, the contrast between the rich, creamy texture of the chawanmushi and the sharp, refreshing sake was delightful. The dry sake cut through the richness, leaving a refreshing aftertaste.
Third Course: Tuna Sashimi with Okra
The third course featured fresh katsuo tuna sashimi topped with star-shaped okra. The crunchy yet slightly slimy texture of the okra paired well with the fresh fish, making each bite delightful. The sauce, slightly gooey and chilled, added an extra layer to the dish that made it fun to eat. This dish was accompanied by a dry sake with a thicker mouthfeel, giving it a density that counteracted the stickiness of the tuna and okra.
Fourth Course: Kagoshima Wagyu with Vegetables and Mushroom
A highlight of this course was the Kagoshima wagyu beef, sourced from Chef Sameshima’s home prefecture, served in a subtle, smoky dashi stock soup with assorted vegetables. The accompanying sake leaned on the sweeter side, balancing the rich and savory flavors of the wagyu. The sake was also served warm, which matched the hot temperature of the soup and made it easy to drink.
Fifth Course: Aji Fry
The fried aji, horse mackerel, was a wonderful contrast of textures, with fluffy, soft fish encased in a crunchy exterior. Paired with a sweet, cold namazake the flavors were balanced beautifully. Its crispness and slightly sparkling sensation complimented the oiliness of the fried food, lightening the course as a whole.
Sixth Course: Somen with Tomato and Scallops
This course featured cold somen noodles topped with fresh grated tomato and scallops. The crisp and refreshing acidity of the tomato served as a perfect palate cleanser for the previous savory dishes. The sweet cold sake, with a mouthfeel and slightly sour flavor reminiscent of wine, paired wonderfully with the tomato in the dish, giving an almost Italian-inspired feel to the course.
Seventh Course: Ibo-dai with Green Pepper
The grilled Japanese butterfish was flaky and soft, topped with green pepper and a mellow, slightly sweet sauce. Served with hot sake, the dryness of the sake balanced the umami of the juicy fish. This dish highlighted Chef Sameshima’s skill in creating complex flavors in a small, minimalist kitchen.
Eighth Course: Tamagoyaki with Kinpira and Pickles
This course included miso soup, rice, pickles, and tamagoyaki topped with matchstick burdock root and carrot. The fluffy rice and sweet, crunchy pickles paired beautifully with the savory tamagoyaki, evoking the comfort of a traditional Japanese meal.
Ninth Course: Yogurt Mousse with Passion Fruit
For dessert, we enjoyed creamy yogurt mousse topped with flavorful passion fruit, paired with sencha green tea. The acidity of the fruit was balanced by the yogurt mousse, and the tea provided a refreshing finish, cleansing the palate and concluding the meal on a high note.
Team Musubi’s visit to Shuzen Sameshima was more than just a meal; it was an immersive exploration of Japanese culinary tradition and the art of sake pairing. Chef Sameshima Taishi’s dedication to seasonal ingredients and meticulous craftsmanship combined with insightful guidance from Tomoyo made every course special. Whether you are a seasoned sake enthusiast or new to Japanese dining, a visit to Shuzen Sameshima promises an unforgettable culinary experience.
To uncover the story behind the stunning Japanese tableware that adorns each dish at Shuzen Sameshima, read our journal From Kiln to Counter: Myousen Toubou at Shuzen Sameshima.
