Sanma: A Splash of Japanese Autumn on Your Plate

As the vibrant colors of aki, or autumn, envelop Japan, the season brings more than just breathtaking landscapes—it offers a bounty of seasonal flavors that capture the essence of fall. One such culinary gem is sanma, or Pacific saury, a beloved symbol of Japanese autumn cuisine. Grilled to perfection with its rich, savory taste, sanma is the highlight of many autumn meals, reflecting the deep connection between the changing seasons and the art of Japanese cuisine.

In this blog, we’ll not only introduce you to various facts about Pacific saury but also highlight a popular izakaya, carefully chosen by Team Musubi, known for its delicious sanma dishes loved by locals. Additionally, we’ll highlight festivals in Tokyo that celebrate this iconic fish, helping you fully experience and savor this quintessential taste of autumn.

If you visit Japan in the fall, this beautiful country embraced by the sea, you’ll notice Pacific saury everywhere—from supermarkets to izakayas and restaurants. In Japanese, it's written as 秋刀魚, which translates literally to "autumn knife fish," a fitting name for both its season and slender, blade-like shape.

This fish has a sleek, silver-gray body that shimmers with a metallic sheen, reminiscent of sunlight dancing on the ocean’s surface on a crisp autumn day. Its back is tinged with a deep blue that gradually fades into a silvery white along its belly, creating smooth, flowing lines with subtle depth. In the ocean, they often appear in large schools, with masses of sanma churning the water, resembling an underwater silver tornado.

In Japanese culinary culture, seasonality is deeply valued. It’s believed that ingredients reach their peak flavor when enjoyed in their natural season, and by savoring seasonal foods, people experience the subtle changes of the seasons. Sanma fishing in Japan has a history of over 300 years, and this bountiful gift from the sea, thanks to advancements in preservation technology, gradually became a household staple. As a wild-caught fish, sanma is known for its firm texture, rich oil content, and deep flavor. Interestingly, this fish has no stomach, so it can be eaten without the need to remove the innards. However, the bitterness may not appeal to everyone, though many enjoy the distinct flavor they add when the fish is grilled whole. Today, sanma is more than just a delicious dish—it has become a nostalgic food that evokes fond memories for many.

As a globally renowned metropolis, Tokyo attracts visitors from all over the world with its unique blend of culture and charm. Beyond experiencing the city's cutting-edge technology and vibrant cityscape, delving into the traditional shitamachi culture to discover the "real Tokyo" will undoubtedly add a special touch of surprise to your journey. After thorough research, Team Musubi found a hidden treasure in Sendagi: a fish specialty restaurant called Akira. This restaurant perfectly captures traditional flavors and is the ideal place to enjoy sanma dishes during the autumn season while immersing yourself in authentic Tokyo culture.

Shitamachi refers to the areas where merchants and craftsmen lived during the Edo period (1603 CE–1868 CE), characterized by streets that have preserved the unique atmosphere of commoners' lives from that era. Walking towards Akira, the narrow alleyways are lined with low, traditional houses. The lattice windows and wooden doors evoke the charm of the Showa era (1926 CE–1989 CE). At the corner, shop owners and customers greet each other like old friends, with a warmth that feels timeless. The autumn sunlight gently falls on the eaves of a roadside shrine, making you pause, as if transported to a slower, more heartfelt time. Every corner of the shitamachi neighborhood is filled with the weight of memories and history, quietly telling the stories of Tokyo’s past.

As we soaked in the warm, traditional streets of the area, we soon arrived at our destination, Akira. The first thing that caught our eye was the shop owner, Kubota Akira, and his family’s venerable fish store, Sancho, which boasts nearly 100 years of history, dating back to the Taisho era (1912 CE–1926 CE). Every day, they sell carefully selected seafood from the market right in front of the shop. Akira, located next door, naturally sources its ingredients from Sancho, and customers can even select their fish directly from the store based on their preferences.

As soon as we stepped into the izakaya, the owner, Kubota, greeted us warmly. Our attention was immediately drawn to the nostalgic Showa era decor. The handwritten daily specials menu not only listed the dishes but also highlighted the origin of the ingredients. In front of the diners, a refrigerated display case showcased a variety of gleaming fresh fish. After giving us a brief introduction to the restaurant’s setup, Kubota quickly began preparing their signature sanma dishes: grilled salted Pacific saury and grilled rice balls wrapped in sanma.

While we waited, Kubota shared a tip for selecting the freshest sanma: check the tip of the fish's mouth—if it’s yellow, that’s a sign of freshness. We were even invited to watch the grilling process. Fresh fish were placed in the oven, and to ensure even cooking, small slits were made in the skin. As the oil began to sizzle with a soft crackle, the surface of the fish slowly turned golden brown, releasing a deliciously smoky aroma that made our mouths water.

The perfectly grilled salted sanma, accompanied by a refreshing side of grated daikon, ginger, and a cut of sudachi, Japanese citrus, was soon served. Pouring soy sauce over the grated daikon not only enhanced the flavor but also added a touch of elegance to the presentation, completing this authentic Japanese dish. Gently piercing the crispy, charred fish skin reveals the soft, succulent meat beneath, releasing a savory aroma. Closing your eyes, you can almost imagine yourself by the seaside.

The next dish was a grilled rice ball, wrapped in a whole, seasoned sanma fillet. The firm, slightly sweet rice absorbed the flavorful oils released from the grilled fish, adding layers of depth to the taste. Both ends of the rice ball and the fish were perfectly charred, giving a slightly crisp texture that beautifully contrasted with the soft center. This combination of textures and flavors made it an irresistible dish, one bite after another.

As our meal at Akira came to an end, we couldn’t help but feel a deep appreciation for the delicate balance of flavors and the care that went into each dish. This experience was more than just a meal—it was a journey through time, culture, and tradition, wrapped in the comforting embrace of Tokyo’s autumn.

Every autumn in Tokyo's Meguro district, a grand Sanma Festival is held. Interestingly, this festival takes place in landlocked Meguro due to its connection to a classic rakugo tale, Japanese comedic storytelling, set in the area. Here, you can savor a wide variety of dishes made with sanma as the star ingredient. The charcoal used for grilling is specially sourced from Wakayama Prefecture, and the grated daikon, served as a refreshing accompaniment, is made from a spicy variety grown in Nasu-Shiobara, Tochigi Prefecture. Tasting the flavors of autumn at this festival is sure to leave you with an unforgettable experience.

As the autumn season unfolds in Japan, bringing with it not only the beauty of nature but also the rich culinary traditions that define this time of year, sanma takes center stage. This simple yet flavorful fish captures the essence of Japanese autumn, connecting the season's bounty with the art of cooking. Whether you're eating a perfectly grilled Pacific saury at a cozy izakaya or attending a lively festival that celebrates this iconic fish, the experience of savoring sanma immerses you in the heart of Japan's culinary heritage.

So, as you explore Tokyo this fall, don't miss the chance to indulge in these unforgettable autumn flavors and discover a deeper connection to the culture that makes Japan so special.