13 September 2024
IWA's Sake Brewing in Toyama
Japan boasts nearly 1,400 sake breweries. Yet, the domestic consumption of sake has been steadily declining since peaking in 1973, and the number of breweries has followed suit. Against all odds, a new generation of sake brewers has emerged, setting their sights beyond domestic borders. Intrigued by this evolution, Team Musubi ventured to Toyama.
Tucked away in the foothills of Japan's majestic Tateyama Mountains, a village named Shiraiwa offers a tranquil retreat far from the urban bustle. It is here, in this serene setting, that a remarkable collaboration has given birth to a new sake brewery. Established by Richard Geoffroy, having been the legendary winemaker behind Dom Pérignon, and designed by the renowned architect Kengo Kuma, this modern sake-making facility is truly a product of the fusion between the tradition of Japanese sake and modern innovation.
In this article, we delve into the world of IWA, exploring the meticulous craftsmanship behind this extraordinary sake and sharing our firsthand experiences.
Contents
- The Land of Shiraiwa
- Assemblage and Bottle Aging
- Tasting
The Land of Shiraiwa
A fifty-minute drive from Toyama Station led us to a secluded plot of land, where the stark black exterior of the IWA brewery stood amidst emerald rice paddies. From a distance, its scale was hard to fathom, but as we drew nearer, the building's imposing presence became undeniable. A sugidama, a traditional cedar ball marking the production of new sake, hung from the eaves, its darkened hue suggesting that some time had passed since the latest batch. Mathieu Glacet, our guide, explained that while sake production was currently on hiatus for the summer, he would be giving us an exclusive tour. IWA does not offer tours to the general public, but this time, we have a special opportunity to introduce it to the readers of Musubi Kiln.
We were first ushered into a minimalist, yet elegant reception area, a space designed for hosting guests and conducting tastings. Inspired by the traditional gassho-zukuri architecture of Japan, the building boasted soaring ceilings. The choice of this architectural style was not merely aesthetic; it was rooted in the desire to create a communal space where people, industry, and the surrounding landscape could coexist harmoniously, just as in a traditional gassho-zukuri farmhouse. The central table is low to the ground, reminiscent of a traditional Japanese irori, a sunken hearth. This design element contributes to a warm and inviting ambiance.
Clad in charred cedar, the building exuded a rustic charm. Large glass windows offered breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside. On the opposite side, gleaming stainless steel tanks stood in stark contrast to the natural beauty outside. It was a curious juxtaposition that underscored the profound connection between the brewery and its environment.
Among the many sake breweries across Japan, Geoffroy chose this location primarily because he found a suitable brewing partner in Toyama, in addition to the favorable environment. Although he had visited Japan numerous times for work over the past few decades, Geoffroy had gradually developed a vision of sake becoming as beloved worldwide as wine. However, when he embarked on his dream of creating a new sake brand, finding a brewing partner proved to be a challenge. Despite visiting around 20 breweries nationwide and sharing his vision, he struggled to find someone who shared his enthusiasm. Even when he did connect with potential partners, they often cited time constraints or financial limitations as obstacles.
To help realize Geoffroy's vision, his friend and the architect of this brewery, Kuma Kengo, introduced him to Masuda Ryuichiro from Masuda Shuzoten (Sake Brewery) in Higashi-Iwase, Toyama. As a co-founder, Masuda played a pivotal role in the brewery's establishment, offering valuable insights to Geoffroy, Kuma, and the construction company regarding the necessary equipment.
Geoffroy also had a romantic vision for the location. "It's similar to the world of champagne and wine," Glacet explained. "He was looking for a place surrounded by fields of raw materials, with views of both the sea and mountains."
Amidst various potential locations, Geoffroy and Kuma took a walk along a nearby ridge between rice paddies and, after only a few minutes of conversation, decided that this was the perfect place. Surrounded by rice paddies and offering views of Toyama Bay and parts of the Tateyama mountain range, this site became the birthplace of a new and exciting sake.
Assemblage and Bottle Aging
Next, we moved on to the next room to delve into the secrets of sake brewing. Through the glass from the reception area, we could see the brewing room. Inside were 32 fermentation tanks, and beyond them, 20 storage tanks. Brewing takes place from late October to early March. What sets IWA's sake-making process apart is that, instead of bottling and shipping immediately after pressing and filtering, the sake is stored in the rear storage tanks before undergoing the assemblage process (which will be explained later). Furthermore, it is pasteurized at the time of bottling and aged in the bottle for at least 16 months.
Unlike the traditional enamel tanks used in many sake breweries, IWA uses stainless steel tanks made in Italy. “The old-style blue and green enamel tanks are actually no longer manufactured domestically,” Glacet explained. “Since we wanted people to be able to see the sake-making process at IWA, we chose new, clean tanks. The producer usually makes wine tanks, but we retrofitted them for sake brewing.”
The beautiful brewing room has been meticulously designed, even down to the overhead piping. Clean lines run throughout the space.
We then ascended a staircase and entered the raw materials processing room. Along the way, I noticed a light beige washi Japanese paper on the interior walls. The paper on the first floor, with its smooth texture and minimal content, represents the clarified sake, while the paper on the second floor, incorporating actual rice grains, symbolizes the raw materials.
In the processing room, polished rice is washed and steamed in a koshiki (rice steaming vat) every morning. Since the steamed rice is too hot to use immediately, it is placed into a cooling machine using a crane to cool it down.
We were shown the different types of sake rice used: “Omachi” from Okayama Prefecture, “Yamadanishiki”' from Nanto City, Toyama Prefecture, “Yamadanishiki” from Tateyama Town, Toyama Prefecture, “Yamadanishiki” from Hyogo Prefecture, and “Gohyakumangoku” from Nanto City, Toyama Prefecture. They use a blend of these different varieties. IWA 5 is created using a process called assemblage, a type of blending, but they only produce one product. Glacet explained the philosophy behind this:
“Richard (Geoffroy) determines all the design elements of the final product, including its aroma, finish, balance of flavors, drinkability, complexity, and so on. He carefully combines different base sakes. If each base sake is a melody of an instrument, then assemblage is an orchestra. Richard, like a composer and conductor, decides what characteristics each base sake should have and what is needed, and he also considers how to combine them to create the ultimate drinking experience.”
We then visited the koji room. Currently used for linen storage during the summer, this is where koji mold is grown on rice to create koji rice over a three-day period. Beyond that, there were two rooms for cultivating shubo, a yeast starter for fermentation. One room is used for sokujomoto, a modern type of shubo, while the other is used for kimoto, a traditional type. Sokujomoto is easier to produce and results in a clean-tasting sake. Most breweries now use sokujomoto. Kimoto takes about three times longer to produce and is more susceptible to contamination, but they believe it is essential for assemblage and so included two rooms to keep everything separate in the brewery's initial design.
Furthermore, five types of yeast are used, including sake yeast and wine yeast. Each has different flavors and requirements, so they must be handled with care to prevent contamination.
Tasting
After learning about the IWA 5 production process, we were fortunate to have a tasting. We sampled Assemblage 2, produced in 2020 and served in a low glass, and Assemblage 4, produced in 2022 and served in a stemmed glass. Kosugi Shuhei, Head of Operations, explained the differences.
"We bottle in June and age it for a little under a year and a half, releasing it the following September or October. We've found that this schedule allows the flavors to mature and harmonize. When the sake is too young, it can be overly vibrant, with its elements feeling disjointed. With time, these elements come together beautifully."
Kosugi described Assemblage 2 as having a mellow flavor, while Assemblage 4 had a well-balanced taste. Upon tasting, I found each to have its own unique character. It was fascinating to experience how, despite sharing the same IWA 5 name, the taste varied from year to year, much like wine. Assemblage 2 had a subtle smokiness and would pair well with hearty dishes, while Assemblage 4 had a fresh, white wine-like feel that would complement a variety of foods. Both were served chilled and paired well with thin glasses, offering a smooth throat feel. "For serving at room temperature, I recommend traditional Japanese sake cups made of ceramic," suggested Kosugi. He emphasized the importance of pairing sake with different types of drinkware based on the occasion and the food.
Reflecting on the creation of Assemblage 4, Kosugi described it as his "most rewarding moment." Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the base sake for previous IWA 5 releases were sent to Geoffroy in France. Assemblage 4 was the first sake they had produced from start to finish at the brewery. Although Kosugi had been nervous about the final product, he was immediately confident that it would be well-loved by many upon tasting it.
When asked about his future plans, Kosugi expressed his desire to see IWA 5 paired with a wider variety of dishes.
"Sake is truly delicious and pairs well with many foods, including blue-backed fish, which can be challenging to pair with wine. I would love to see IWA 5 on wine lists in various restaurants. It would be wonderful for people who have only ever considered wine to have another option."
Our visit to the sake brewery and the tasting of IWA 5 created an unforgettable memory. We fervently hope to savor the profound flavor of IWA 5 in fine dining establishments around the world. Discovering IWA 5 on a wine list would undoubtedly be the pinnacle of our culinary journey.
