Step Back in Time at Tokyo’s Oldest Dagashi Shop

On a sunny February day, Team Musubi visited Kamikawaguchiya, a dagashiya (Japanese penny candy store) nestled within the grounds of Zoshigaya Kishibojin Shrine.

This store boasts a history of over 240 years, making it a rare treasure that preserves the nostalgic charm of old Japan. Its storefront is lined with colorful sweets, while the warmth of its wooden shelves adds to the nostalgic atmosphere. It is a place that brings back memories of clutching pocket money as a child and carefully choosing treats.

This time, we share the charm, history, and the heartfelt thoughts of the shop owner, Uchiyama Masayo.

The history of this store dates back to the Edo period (1603–1868 CE), with its founding in 1781. For over 240 years, it has welcomed visitors in an unchanged form, standing as a bridge between past and present.

Even today, this dagashi shop, which has evolved alongside the changing times while retaining the charm of Edo, holds the distinction of being Tokyo’s oldest dagashi shop. Its legacy is evident in the weathered shop sign, a silent witness to centuries of history.

At the heart of the store is its 13th-generation owner, Uchiyama, who grew up in an era when children played outside until dusk, often stopping by on their way home from school to pick out their favorite treats. Unlike today, there were no smartphones, and children weren’t burdened with endless extracurricular activities.

"The store looks almost the same as it did back then," Uchiyama says with a nostalgic smile. In the past, the area around Kamikawaguchiya was a lively playground, where children gathered to chat and share candy. As modern buildings replaced old ones and the cityscape evolved, this little shop remained a steadfast relic of simpler times.

Dagashiya are disappearing. 

“It can’t be helped,” Uchiyama sighs. “There are fewer children coming in to buy dagashi, penny candy.” Her son has considered taking over the shop, but the future remains uncertain.

“Kids used to line up outside, waiting to buy snacks. But those days are fading. The declining birth rate along with the growing number of supermarkets and convenience stores have changed everything.”

She recalls how, in the past, she would travel to Nippori’s wholesale district, carrying back supplies wrapped in a traditional furoshiki cloth. Now, with a simple phone call, goods are delivered directly to the store. Even dagashi itself has changed—prices that were once just 10 yen have soared to over 100 yen.

Still, visitors often walk through the doors and say, “This brings back memories.” Some of the most touching moments come from adult customers who return after many years. “When I was little, I couldn’t afford these,” one visitor once told her. “But now, as an adult, I finally can.”

”Dagashi is more than just candy—it is a bridge to the past, evoking childhood memories with every bite.”

Despite the changing times, Kamikawaguchiya remains a beloved destination, not only for locals but for visitors from around the world. The store has been featured in international media, and one customer once traveled all the way from Taiwan just to see a cat that used to live in the shop.

“I don’t speak English,” Uchiyama admits, “but somehow, we manage to understand each other. Watching people from different countries excitedly choose their dagashi—it feels like I have friends all over the world.”

The store has welcomed many notable visitors over the years. Some of Japan’s most celebrated actresses have filmed here, adding to its storied history. Among its most distinguished guests, however, was the current Emperor, who visited during his school days, accompanied by security personnel and friends, to buy sweets.

Many customers span three generations. Former regulars, who once clutched pocket money in their small hands, now return with their own children—and even their grandchildren. Some bring their babies to meet Uchiyama, placing them in her arms as a gesture of trust and affection. “The greatest treasure of this store is the connections we’ve built over time,” she says. “Seeing children grow up, then return with their own families—it’s truly special.”

The shelves of Kamikawaguchiya are lined with over 100 varieties of dagashi, their colorful packaging sparking both evoking a sense of excitement and nostalgia.

“Times change, but children’s love for dagashi doesn’t,” Uchiyama says. “Sweet, salty, crunchy—the joy is in the choosing.”

Even foreign visitors share similar tastes with Japanese customers. Some of the most popular items include kinako-bo (soybean flour candy), fugashi (wheat gluten sweets), vinegared squid, konpeito (sugar candy), ramune soda candy, mini donut sets, and caramel sticks.

It might be difficult to imagine what these snacks are like, so here’s a brief introduction to a few of them.

• Fugashi (Wheat Gluten Snack): Light and crispy with a delicate sugar coating.
  
• Kinako Stick (Soybean Flour Candy): A chewy, mildly sweet candy coated in roasted soybean flour, giving it a nutty aroma.
• Young Donuts: Small, ring-shaped donuts that are soft, slightly sweet, and easy to enjoy as a quick snack.
• Candy Box: A fun assortment of colorful, bite-sized candies with a crunchy texture and various fruity flavors.
• Puffed Rice Snack : A light and airy puffed rice treat with a subtle sweetness that gently melts in your mouth. The packaging is shaped like a carrot, making it fun and nostalgic.
• Karume Stick (Caramelized Sugar Stick): A crispy, airy snack made by caramelizing sugar at high temperatures, creating a light yet rich sweetness.
• Big Katsu: A crispy, breaded fish snack with a savory-sweet sauce flavor, offering a satisfying crunch.
• Pull-String Candy: Soda and cola-flavored hard candies. Players pick a string from a bundle, and the candy attached to it is their prize. The fun lies in not knowing which flavor or size of candy you'll get!
• Ramune (Cola Flavor): A fizzy, dissolving tablet with a refreshing cola taste, inspired by Japan's classic soda.

If you come across these snacks while visiting Japan, why not give them a try?

“There were times I thought about closing the store,” Uchiyama confesses. “But every time I see a customer’s smiling face, I know I made the right choice to keep going.”

Summers at Kamikawaguchiya are heavenly, but winters are harsh. A small heater does little to warm the space, and Uchiyama refuses to wear gloves with covered fingertips—“I wouldn’t be able to pick up the dagashi properly,” she says. Her hands, reddened by frostbite, reveal the sacrifices she has made to keep this place alive.

Yet, Kamikawaguchiya stands firm, welcoming visitors with the same warmth as always. The joy of selecting a treat, the thrill of holding it in one’s hands, and the rush of memories that follow—this is what makes a dagashiya more than just a candy store. It is a nostalgic haven, a place where childhood lingers.

At the end of our visit, Uchiyama hands us a small bag of dagashi. “Try these,” she says kindly. “Thank you for coming in the cold.”

As we step out into the winter air, our shoulders instinctively hunch against the chill. Yet, inside, we feel a warmth that lingers—like the comfort of knowing that, no matter how much the world changes, some places will always remain.

And we can only hope that Kamikawaguchiya will continue to stand for many more years to come.